The Da Vinci printer from XYZprinting is turning out to be one of the best buys in the world of cheap, consumer printers. Sure, it uses chipped filament, but that’s an easy fix for anyone who knows what a.hex file is.
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And yes, the Da Vinci host software is a mess of proprietary garbage with limited functionality, but Mark has. When Mark received his Da Vinci, he immediately started snooping around inside the printer’s guts, like any good tinkerer should. He found an SD card holding all the sample prints that ship with the printer, all in a convenient Gcode format. Inside these sample.STL files were all the calls you would expect – setting the temperature, changing the layer height, and all the other good stuff you’d find in any other RepRap.
With a little bit of modification to.STL files generated by any slicing program, Mark isn’t limited any more by the terrible host software that ships with the Da Vinci. Combine this with, and Mark has a printer at least as functional as any open hardware model. Posted in Tagged, Post navigation. Looking at the video I noticed that the controller shown actually has stepsticks mounted on it, so if you swap it out with a ramps or sanguinololu or similar you wouldn’t even need to buy those.
XYZprinting Da Vinci 1.0 Hacking (Page 1) — XYZ Printing Hacks & Mods. Hacks & Mods → XYZprinting Da Vinci 1.0 Hacking. Where the XYZ software choked the. Exclusively focused on offensive security, HackingTeam was founded in 2003. In 2004, we were the first to propose an offensive solution for cyber investigations,.
What’s more interesting however is that the sd card contains a file ‘FWupgrade.dat’, so unless there’s some funky encryption going on, the easiest things seems to be to just port a standard firmware over to this controller. Mark, if you’re reading this, perhaps you can post that file somewhere? Also, this guy found that the ‘proprietary’.3w file format is just obfuscated gcode, and wrote a converter for it (unfortunately online only): In other words, lots of options for ‘jailbreaking’ this machine, it seems. Bought a Da Vinci 1.0a and got it delivered a couple days ago. The longest part of the printing process was just taking all the tape and packing off, but out of the box it was printing perfectly. The filament doesn’t seem that expensive – $40 from Kogan including delivery, and you get 240m. The starter spool is 120m, I’ve used about 4m according to the machine stats.
I use about 1m average per print (some prints are bigger, some are smaller). The only problem I’ve had with it is when I didn’t glue the plate adequately, I cleaned it up, and then it was back to printing fine again. On the surface, it’s impressive for the money. It smells and it’s fickle. Local sales show PLA is selling about 5 to 1 PLA to ABS. That is/was a serious blunder on their part. More and more are moving away from ABS.
A big problem with the race to the bottom on 3d printers is that we have pretty much bottomed out the electronics, and all profit is coming out of the mechanical side. Which wears out. Give it a couple hundred hours of print time, and see how worn it is.
That may not sound bad until you consider 200 hours of print time, isn’t much when a single print can take 4 hours or more. Good linear systems are quite expensive. Unfortunately it’s not that simple. There’s a bunch of other variables. For example, the magma hotend can print ABS (225C) and polycarbonate (265C) but has all sorts of clogging problems printing PLA. The explanation I’ve heard is the heat transfers itself up the filament (creeps), eventually causing it to deform higher up in the hotend where it clogs things up. Whether that is the actual mechanism of clogging, I can’t be sure, but google magma and pla and you’ll find lots of info.
I pretty much print everything with ABS, in spite of having options. PLA doesn’t work well in PhoenixABS stands a better chance of not melting if a part ends up outside for any length of time. I print PLA perfectly on my DUO. You are right about the heat creeping up the filament, I think it is mostly attributed to it creeping up the neck of the hotend and it radiating/ advecting to the filament and melting it prematurely. I resolved the issue by drilling a hole in a small heatsink so the neck of my hot end can poke through it (you can see another member on the volvito forum has done the same thing) and I put some heatsink compound on hot end where it contacts the alumunum block that it mounts too. I’ve given up printing large parts in abs, the warping is terrible, especially for solid objects with squarish corners.
Closed chamber, heated print surface and abs slurry on the print surface help, but at some at some point your print is going to curl at the corners and split across layers because it is too big. For strong or large parts I print in pla which in my experience does not warp, sand and touch up. Then silicone mold and cast. The bonus is that I can save the mold and recast. Takes 20 minutes to cure instead of 3+ hours of print time. Downside is that youre going to spend an extra 100 $ on materials that spoil pretty quick once opened.
The biggest thing about ABS that is hard for a beginner to deal with is the higher temperatures, lengthening the turnaround time. So I suggest people start with PLA, since the machine gets up to temp as much as twice as quickly, so they can fail often, fail early so they learn quickly. ABS does smell, but an enclosure helps that a.lot. ABS parts can be stronger, have a much higher impact resistance and they are also not going to melt if you leave the part in your car during the day. I’ve not had to deal with a warped part in a good long time.
A level bed and an enclosure helps for that too, prevent drafts, and warmer ambient temps during prevent warping. I posted this a few places already like a day after I got my printer. If you change the offlineprinting.gcode to SAMPLE01.gcode and access it from the menuutilitiesSamplesDemo you can print the files all day long without it reducing the filament count on the eeprom chip. No soldering or wasting time resetting the chip. So essentially you can print what you want and not worry about the chipped cartridges. I’ve printed PLA, NYLON, NINJAFLEX, whatever. This works on my printer, anyone else want to confirm it?
I will take this printer any day of the week over errhem.lulzbot.cough. Lulzbot is overpriced, you need a separate extruder head for flexible filaments, etc. The Da Vinci is everything all printer companies have not been able to do straight out of the box: work.
Ok the eprom flash worked for me but i’ve had some cartidge error i had to reboot the printer 2 times and it was good! Is their a simple way of setting up the extruder temp? I found this on voltivo blog “The experts in this and other forums are still figuring out what the chip on the cartridge does, but at this point it is clear that the printer checks the cartridge for the following information: – Is a valid chip present (cartridge is out – won’t print) – What is the cartridge original (FULL) capacity? Mine also came in today. I’ve printed out the “DEMO”- not sure what it is supposed to be, but it maybe is something to put a hot paper coffee cup into so one can drink from it as if from a regular cup.
It used about 15% of the 300 gram filament cartridge- i’d skip this one if you just got your printer. I notice I have firmware 1.1.A, and the website has 1.1.I I’m wondering if I should upgrade the firmware. I saw some mention that people wanted to revert back from ‘G’ – anyone know why? I also printed out the key chain. I am not impressed with the print quality so far. I have a UP3D Mini that puts out much better parts. I was hoping the da Vinci would print better parts BTW, I am using 0.2 and average speed, so I would expect better prints.
Something else I have noticed- I have an STL that prints out on the Up3D Mini in proper scale, but the da Vinci is printing it in micro size for some reason Not very impressive results so far. Just yesterday I saw an SD card extension cable on Amazon for cheap. It seems like this might be a good thing to install on the DaVincI so you don’t have to crack open the case to make file/fitmware changes. I appreciate all of the great info here. I think that i’m going to go ahead and buy this printer now that I know it can be enslaved to do my bidding. I want to print a prosthetic hand for a disabled veteran that got busted up in Iraq.
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My hope is that this machine is a good place to start for cheap. If things work out I will post whatever I discover in the process of putting this thing to work. Maybe a page on Google+ would be a good thing for aggregating resources on this topic. Swear at me if you’d like. Hardware wise XYZ Printing makes fantastic professional looking ready to go equipment way to go awesome job XYZ Printing.
Many of the connectors hot end especially require replacement with automotive style barrel connectors. Some of the zip tires in the back need to be removed to lengthen the wiring harness’ otherwise no other mods or repairs have been required. Where they dropped the ball is with there garbage software. If you want a decent printer scrap the firmware re-flash with 0.92+ repetier host as per forums follow some settings videos on you tube and enjoy this well put together little machine.
Hacks and mods are always fun and the community has collectively taken what I once considered a crappy waste of $500 and made me smile as I now rival my friends $2000 machine.
The da vinci cartridge chips are annoying from because they insure you only use XYZ's filament but it is kinda nice that the printer knows how much filament is left, what kind of filament is in the spool, what temperature the extruder and bed should be at, and what speed to print. It even knows if you have enough filament left to complete this print which is nice.
Is it possible to hack the cartridge chip and use it with other filaments? What I mean is I would like a cartridge to know that I am using for example Lava Ninjaflex, There is 223 M left in the spool, that the Extruder Temperature should be 225°C – 235°C, Platform Temperature should be 40°C, Top and bottom layers: 10-20 mm/ sec, Infill speeds: 15-35 mm/ sec, Layer 2+ use cooling fan if available. Has anyone done this before?
Forgot to mention that I am using Repetier host with slic3r and not XYZWare. Forcing the printer to use custom temperature settings is easy.
You can override the extruder temperature and platform temperature by changing the gcode going to the printer. If you are using XYZ Ware on y our computer, you have the option to export the machine instructions to a.3w file and save it to a folder. Then you can convert it into a.gcode file as described here:. Once you get the text file, open it and you can see two lines commented out specifying extruder and platform temperature.
It'll look like this:;M104 S0; set temperature;M109 S0; wait for temperature to be reached replace these two lines with the following (note the ';' at the beginning of each line is deleted to uncomment these lines): M190 S100; set bed temerature to 100, wait until reached M109 S230; set extruder temerature to 230, wait until reached Change those to any desired value, then base64 encript (with notepad) all the text, and save as a.3w file. You can then open the.3w file in xyz ware and send it to the printer, which will honor the custom temperature settings you specified earlier in the gcode. Alternatively, use the SD card extender trick and replace one of the sample files with the.gcode file and print with the 'print sample' option in the menu. At least for me it is really convenient to have a stand alone 3d printer not tethered to any computers. That being said, it is best to set these parameters in the slicing software which translates the desired behavior to machine instructions and generates the correct gcode. The problem is, at least with the XYZ Da Vinci 1.0A, is that the printer relies on the information in the header of the 3w file (which is just encrypted gcode text).
Strictly speaking the printer should not care about text that's commented out (words after ';' in a line) but it seems to read information from these lines and figure out the temp, filament usage, print time, etc. I'm still trying to figure it out but the bare minimum information needed in the header seems to be the file name and filament type.
The printer (at least for me) freezes and restarts itself if these lines are missing, even when they are commented out in the first place. Sorry about the lengthy reply, hope it helps. In summary, while the temperatures can be adjusted by flashing the cartridge chip, parameters such as speed and fan usage should be enforced by using a slicing software with better customization ability or edit the gcode directly (but not very practical for setting speed).
It is a little frustrating that XYZ uses the commented lines in the gcode in mysterious ways and keep trying to hide the plain text gcode file from the end users, but that's to be expected for a closed source product. I still love my printer, with minimum tweaking it's already outperforming a makerbot replicator 2x in terms of print quality and practically no warping in parts with large footprint.